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Showing posts with label runway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label runway. Show all posts

The Dos and Don'ts of Runway

Friday, May 3, 2013

An open letter to Indy's fashion industry and the top tips I've learned from Fashion's big boys

Model Reine Abahala walks in Trendianapolis, a fashion show I produced in February.
 Photo by Jordan Irwin.

Dear Indy's fashion community,

You know I love you. I love you so much that I participate in countless events, attend endless fashion shows, and blog about you constantly. I love that you're growing, I love that you're optimistic, I love the constant support and praise you give to one another. It makes me so excited about your future and I love being part of your network.

But in order to grow and improve, the Indianapolis fashion community needs criticism. Every great designer has had a negative review, and that's what makes them strive to be the best they can be. They learn from their mistakes, make necessary changes, and do better next time. It seems to me everyone is so busy being positive about Indy's fashion industry, that no one wants to talk about what we can improve upon. In my opinion, it's fashion shows.

While I have seen some very well produced shows in this city (Project IMA comes to mind), I have seen more bad ones. I have only put together a couple myself, but I have learned a ton from watching an insane amount of shows from NYC, Paris, London, and Milan. I realize Indy shouldn't just try to copy other peoples' fashion shows and we should be ourselves, but at the same time it doesn't hurt to learn some things from fashion's big boys. At the request of my lovely friend Kessara Dhana, I've put together a helpful list of some dos and don'ts we can all think about when producing a fashion show.

Do's


Alexander McQueen's S/S '04 show, Deliverance, was a choreographed fashion presentation based on the dance marathon movie They Shoot Horses Don't They?

Do: Be creative. For some reason, the standard formula for most Indianapolis fashion shows seems to go as follows: A tall white runway + DJ blasting techno and top 40 dance hits + emcee + three or four rows of white chairs on either side of the runway. 

Not every fashion show should look the same! Alexander McQueen was famous for his eccentric venues including a specially constructed mental hospital, a 19th century Parisian dance hall, a giant chessboard, and my personal favorite, the Conciergerie, the spot where Marie Antoinette was beheaded. During one of Missoni's best shows, all of the guests sat on giant Moroccan pillows. It can be risky, but outdoor fashion shows can also be incredibly fun. While the locale doesn't have to be extravagant or exotic, thinking outside the box will set your fashion show apart from the rest.

Anna Wintour left Marc Jacobs 2007 fashion show early because it started late

Do: Start on time. Running 15 minutes behind is one thing, but a half hour late or more is flat out rude and inconsiderate to your guests. There is literally NO reason to be late, unless Beyonce is your guest of honor and her limo got caught in some traffic. I kid, I kid. There is no reason to be late. Even Marc Jacobs got torn to shreds after starting his show super late in 2007 because he was waiting on dresses to arrive. Anna Wintour walked out early and his other celebrity guests were pissed. Now the designer notoriously starts every show right on the dot. If he can do it, so can you.

Do: Prepare. Have fittings before the show. Make a descriptive list of the order of your looks, and which model is modeling which look. Make copies so every model knows his or her order. Do a run through. Give the model tips on how you want them to walk. Organize, organize, organize. 

Do: Make an appropriate playlist. The songs you choose for your show should enhance the clothes on the runway. Most fashion shows I attend in Indy sound more like a Jersey Shore dance club than a fashion show, with DJs blaring overplayed techno tracks. Unless it's a club themed fashion show, this makes no sense. I know it's fun to get the crowd revved up, but try to do so in a more appropriate way.

Do: Make sure that photographers and/or videographers are attending your show. You will want to document all of your hard work!

Do: Edit your show. There is no need to include every piece a designer has ever made in your show. Also, if a piece is not quite to your standards, feel free to give the designer some direction. Again, constructive criticism can be a really good thing.

Don'ts


Chanel's Spring 2013 Couture show, a Neoclassical forest-theme extravaganza set in Paris' Grand Palais, boasted 68 looks and only took 18 minutes.

Don't: Take an intermission. For the love of humanity, a fashion show should not last two hours. Even Chanel's multi million dollar productions, with 60+ looks, rarely take longer than 20 minutes. You want to leave your audience wanting more, not wanting to bolt in the middle due to sheer boredom. A fashion show should be fast paced. If you want to turn it into a longer affair, have some pre-show entertainment or a cocktail hour. An added benefit of a cocktail hour is that guests will definitely get to their seats on time for the show.

Leave the sexy poses to the Victoria's Secret Angels, please.

Don't: Expect your models to pose like Victoria's Secret Angels. I can only think of a handful of reasons for a model to blow a kiss at the end of the runway, and chances are, your show is not one of them. I've seen many a good model look like a total tool trying to do a sexy pose at the end of the runway because the fashion show director told them to. Over-the-top posing never looks good. The focus should always be on the clothes. You don't want people paying more attention to how hilarious the models look awkwardly winking at the audience.  Another thing I can't stand is when models are told to pose at the beginning, middle, and end of the runway. This takes so long. Again, a fashion show should be fast paced!

Don't: Assign seats. There aren't many mega celebrities attending fashion shows in Indianapolis, so it's pretty pointless to assign seats. It's embarrassing when multiple seats in the front row are left empty because of no shows, and I see it all the time. Unless you have a choice seat you want for a person taking pictures or writing about your event, the seating should be first come, first serve.

Don't: Choose a huge venue. You want your show to look busy and full, not sparse and empty. Only rent enough chairs for people who have bought tickets in advance. If you have more guests than you have chairs, make sure there's a good place to stand. It shouldn't be a big deal if the show is only 30 minutes or less. You don't want a ton of empty seats or your show will look like a flop.

Don't: Take on all the responsibility. Create a small committee in advance. You will need someone handling all the PR and marketing, someone getting sponsors (if you need them), and someone helping you coordinate models backstage during the show. 



The Top 10 Looks of NYFW S/S '13

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

The Best of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013


Gilded Globetrotter by Altuzarra


Cool Cutouts by Alexander Wang


Mod Squad by Marc Jacobs


The New Park Avenue by Oscar de la Renta


Mixed Media Mastery by Proenza Schouler


Perfect Prints by Duro Olowu



Sophisticated Spain by Ralph Lauren


Sport Luxe by Reed Krakoff


Naughty and Nice by Rodarte


Uptown Chic by Zac Posen


Chanel Resort 2013 Collection

Thursday, May 17, 2012



Resort season is the most frivolous of all the fashion seasons: It states that you have the cash to jet around the world multiple times a year, plus the money to spend on festive new vacation wardrobes, and the hired help to lug it all to multiple destinations. I don't know about you, but when I travel, I bring a couple of wadded up sundresses, a pair of sunglasses, and a few bikinis, but even though cruise collections don't pertain to me in the least, I still adore them.

Kaiser Karl cheekily showed his Chanel resort collection at Versailles, the flagship of frivolity. Its exquisite gardens were the perfect backdrop for a pastel-heavy mishmash of hip-hop meets eighteenth-century court, France's last Golden Age. Whimsical and youthful, this collection proves that fashion can be quite indulgent indeed. These lovely clothes might come at a cost that this 99 percenter can't afford, but fashion as mere fantasy is quite alright with me.












Top 10 Paris Fashion Week Looks

Friday, March 30, 2012



The run-down of my top 10 favorite looks from the Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2012 runways, in no particular order.

Valentino


The couture meets folk ankle-length sheer dress at Valentino was one of my favorite red carpet appropriate looks of the season. I would love to see this sweet and sassy little number on an of-the-minute starlet like Carey Mulligan or Jennifer Lawrence.

Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton did it again with a louder-than-life collection for Alexander McQueen complete with otherworldly feathered frocks. Expect this one to be in every upcoming major editorial in the September fashion magazines.

Louis Vuitton

To be honest, I found most of the oversized pieces wildly unflattering in the most recent Louis Vuitton collection, but I thought this jeweled vest and pant look was a diamond in the rough.

Isabel Marant

Expect the relaxed Western shirts and lace up suede cropped pants from Isabel Marant's latest collection  to show up on every New York It girl in the fall. The perfect combination of casual and cool.

Givenchy

 The thigh high swashbuckling leather boots and satiny separates from Riccardo Tisci's dark and romantic collection for Givenchy looked super sexy but surprisingly comfy. The skintight extra long gloves added an additional element of mystery to an already perfect look.

Haider Ackermann

 It was tricky for me to pick a favorite from Haider Ackermann's collection because every single look was absolutely genius. His color use and tailoring are beyond reproach, and the collection was brilliantly cohesive. I can't wait to see what else the designer comes up with next season.

Christian Dior

 Bill Gaytten has gotten a lot of criticism as the replacement for John Galliano, but one of my favorite looks of the season was the shocking pink party dress with a barely sheer pleated organza skirt on the Christian Dior runway.

Chanel

 I am obsessed with the sheer lace pants and sleeves that spiced up this fabulous purple metallic and black feather dress. Very edgy, but still so Chanel.

Balenciaga

 Nicolas Ghesquiere also designed a purple metallic look, but done in a totally different, but equally amazing way. A pixellated animal print bustier looked modern paired with high-waisted, two-toned slouch pants.

Ann Demeulemeester

 And last but not least, Ann Demeulemeester killed it with her edgy (as usual) collection. This season, it seemed she drew some inspiration from kick-ass Girl With the Dragon Tattoo heroine, Lisbeth Salander. I love the asymmetrical, but razor-sharp tailoring on this electric blue look, one of my favorites from the collection.


Top 10 Milan Fashion Week Looks

Thursday, March 8, 2012

The run-down of my top 10 favorite looks from the Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2012 runways, in no particular order.

Jil Sander

Raf Simons' last collection was an eat-your-heart-out kind of moment. It hit all the right notes and showed his successor, Jil Sander herself, that she has enormous shoes to fill. This slice of silver lamé under a pitch-pefect white collarless coat was my favorite look, something that a modern-day Jean Harlow might wear.

Gucci

Frida Giannini's latest collection for Gucci was dark and romantic, laden with jewel tones and velvet. One of my favorite gowns was this emerald leopard print velvet number, slit down to there in true Gucci style. 

Versus

Printed thigh-high boots made to match printed party frocks seems like a wonky idea, but somehow it worked at Versus. 

Giorgio Armani

Armani's latest collection was youthful and fun, with plenty of neon-on-black color combinations. Silky Bermuda shorts and flat oxford shoes gave this wild faux fur coat a playful edge.

Emilio Pucci

A men's-style tuxedo jacket casually thrown over Joan Smalls' shoulders was such a killer way to give this outrageously sexy dress that certain je ne sais quoi. 

Versace

White, skin-tight, and spangled with silver. This is exactly the way I like my Versace.

Fendi

Karl Lagerfeld always puts out the best furs for Fendi, and this season was no different. Worn over a burgundy crocodile dress, this multicolored fur looks sinfully luxurious.

Roberto Cavalli

I don't know if it's the train conductor hat, the elbow-length blue leather gloves, the double peplum, or that it's on Natasha Poly, one of the fiercest models in the biz, but there's something about this look that I'm obsessed with. 

Dolce & Gabbana

Sicily's baroque religious traditions inspired Dolce & Gabbana's collection this season, but in true form, the designers added a liberal splash of sex appeal to the mix. An ornate gold-embroidered cape worn seductively over a sheer lace dress had a naughty vs nice appeal.

Missoni

The first look from Missoni's fall/winter collection had me at hello. A natty tweed overcoat with a fur collar looked super sick belted over buttery leather patchwork pants.

Top 10 London Fashion Week Looks

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Here's the run-down of my top 10 favorite looks from the London Fashion Week fall/winter 2012 runways, in no particular order.


House of Holland



Red leather is heating up the runways right now, and Henry Holland's fire engine cocktail dress might be the sexiest version I've seen so far.


Temperley London


I loved Alice's Temperley's polished folk-themed runway show. I could imagine a stylish young czarina wearing this bright floral embroidered velvet dress with sheer long sleeves. 

Mary Katrantzou

Unique prints are a huge trend for fall, and no one does them better than hip designer Mary Katrantzou.  Mundane, every day objects like clocks, grass and typewriters decorated her moulded dresses for a not so mundane result. 

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab drew inspiration from Hollywood grande dame Marlene Dietrich for his fall collection. My favorite looks were a series of sequined sheaths glittering under sheer chiffon, referencing Dietrich's "naked" dresses from her cabaret years. Who knew that pornographic fashion could look so chic?

Christopher Kane

 Christopher Kane also took on the sheer trend, but this time, the designer chose see-through tulle mesh, strategically covering any naughty bits with oversized black flowers.

Burberry Prorsum

Dressed up puffer jackets were a favorite on the fall runways. Christopher Bailey's cropped coats looked especially sleek paired with slim ruffled pencil skirts. Expect to see these stylish puffers sell out everywhere come fall.

Mark Fast

 Now, THAT's a sweaterdress. I've never seen comfy look so sexy!

 Matthew Williamson

 I loved the bright baroque prints that decorated Matthew Williamson's gowns. This is such a unique take on red carpet dressing.

Roksanda Ilincic

 Dressed up sweatshirts have appeared on many runways this season, but my favorite was this one, contrasting an ice blue astrakhan skirt with luxurious fox trim.

Jonathan Saunders

The futuristic equestrians at Jonathan Saunders were both charming and modern. The neon green mixed with neutral tones was a clever, but simple stroke of genius.
 
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